Protect a high-value outboard motor with a 50 – 315-lb weight capacity outboard engine stand. Motor stands, trollies or carts, designed to store a motor in the ideal upright position to prevent leakage of fluid, off the floor and safe, come in several different designs from movable, static or collapsible – each with there own distinctive characteristics.
Stands are perfect for storing motors in times of non-use, service or maintenance, and transporting to a boat.
A cool temperature in the storage shed is preferred since this offers the chance to lessen the process of rusting; low humidity levels work in a similar fashion. Basically, you should avoid storing the outboard in a shed which is likely to experience significant fluctuations in temperature — like being positioned by the furnace — since moisture has the potential to develop quite suddenly, which will result in mechanical related problems.
Characteristic of a Motor Stand
Portable for use wherever you are, a 1-inch tubular framed outboard stand sits on solid casters or pneumatic tires for increased maneuverability and stability. Its large diameter pneumatic-type wheels are designed to move with ease no matter the size of engine carried.
- 1-inch tubular-steed framed construction
- Multiple structure designs to accept varying weight limits
- Handles fold for ease in storage
- Solid-built 1.5 – 2-inch hanging block for placing the engine
- Pneumatic tires or casters
The motor’s hangers are placed on 1.5 – 2-inch thick block to secure the engine in a vertical position – which will hold up to oil, gas, or similar corrosive materials. For ease in pushing or pulling, a cart often comes with soft-grip ergonomic handles, which folds-down (or flat in some cases) for convenient storing – offering a lot more space in a shed or garage – and perfect to transport in a vehicle and use on arrival at the boat slip or marina. In addition, with the handles folded-down, it will make maintenance a great deal easier.
Offering varying weight capacities, an engine stand is constructed in high-strength tubular steel, in several different tube frame dimensions – and accepts all brands of motors (Johnson – Yamaha – Evinrude – Suzuki – Tohatsu). A stand built for small HP motors (up to 15 horsepower) has a weight capacity at 60 to 85lbs, a stand for medium HP motors (up to 30 horsepower) has a weight capacity at 85 to 130lbs, and a stand for large HP motor has a weight capacity at 130– 315lbs.
Storing an outboard engine in an upright position, at an angle similar to a boats stern is most beneficial to secure liquids inside the engine in the right compartments, which prolongs the motors tightness and sealing.
Build a Stand
Looking for a solution to winterize an engine, change oils, or general safe-keeping – a self-built stand offers a practical solution to avoid leaving a motor sitting on a garage floor – with plans offering construction times of 30 minutes to 2 hours using 2×4 or 2×6 lumbers plus miscellaneous hardware. Searching online will return a varied selection of plans, some good, others poor.
How to care, prepare and winterize an outboard motor
Proper care, preparation and winterization of the outboard motor or any mechanical component of the boat are able to increase the overall life-expectancy and functionality of the vessel. Maintaining the outboard engine offers a variety of positive aspects, from increasing the safety to reducing the cost of owning the vessel. While certain maintenance and service issues might be best left to the authorized dealerships and mechanics, a wide range of general repair issues on the engine can be completed by the owner to help with saving on costs.
Prior to using the outboard motor
- Verify the engine oil level – relying on the guidelines suggested in the owner’s manual.
- Check the fuel system for signs of leaks or extreme wear.
- Inspect to lanyard stop to make sure it is able to kill the engine.
- Examine the engine mounting to make sure it is able to securely mount the transom
- Look at the steering system to inspect for signs of loose components. Check the tie bar fasteners and hydraulic fittings, and that no leaks or damage is noticed.
- Inspect for indications of damage to the propeller blades. Replace or repair the propeller if required.
After using the outboard motor
- If using the vessel in saltwater make certain to flush the engines cooling system.
- Clean the outboard motor if just lifted from salt waters
- Rinse out the propeller exhaust outlet with freshwater after using the vessel and outboard in saltwater.
Perform every 100-hours or yearly
- Replace the oil and filter. Examine the separator/water filter for signs of dirt or debris. Change or clean the filter in situations where it is deemed necessary. Use a mechanic to verify the condition of the thermostat to make sure it is able to close at the ideal temperature. If required replace the lubricant for the gear case.
- Make sure the fasteners, bolts, and nuts are tight. Look for signs of corrosion with the anodes and replace if required.
- If operating a power-steering vessel have the steering fluid check and top up if necessary. Check the power trim and add fluid.
- Examine the battery
- Have the electrical system inspected for frayed wires or loose connections.
- If regularly used in saltwater, examine the spark plugs for signs of corrosion. Swap-out the spark plugs if required.
Perform every 300-hours or 3-yearly
- Have the engine inspect by an authorized dealer or mechanic to examine the water pump impeller and high-pressure inline fuel filter, and replace if deemed necessary.
- Spark plugs are likely to require replacing at the 3-year or 300-hour time-frame.
- Examine the accessory drive belt to establish if it needs replacing.